Jean-Louis Palladin 1946-2001

"Some of the people who come to my restaurant don't want to try anything too unusual, but I also want to be ready for those who are willing to be adventurous. It's like putting a piece by an unknown composer on the program between Bach and Beethoven. I'm very encouraged when people tell me that I have helped them learn about food"
... Jean-Louis Palladin

Most people believe the Food Network was the real catalyst in establishing the way we view the subject of food in America. It most certainly was and is a major factor, but I believe the real turning point was the arrival in 1979 of the great chef,
Jean-Louis Palladin. In 1974, at the age of 28, Jean-Louis became the youngest chef in France to earn two Michelin stars, and that's a big thing. Five years later, he arrived in Washington, DC at the Watergate Hotel, and food in America was about to make a major change.

Some words from my interview in 2001, just weeks before the great chef died at the young age of 55.

BB: So you arrive in America at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. What is going through your mind?

JL: The truth is that I wanted to get back on the plane and return to France. I was overwhelmed by what I saw in America. This was 1979, so we are talking about many years ago, but I saw the frozen lobster, the frozen chicken, and the snails in
the can. I knew this was not acceptable. I started spending my early mornings exploring the seafood and produce markets of Washington, and I started having all kinds of fresh products delivered from all over the world to the restaurant. In those early days, I made some enemies with local purveyors and other chefs, but gradually, most people came around to my way of thinking. I found the necessary ingredients, and ended up staying at the Watergate for 17 years.

BB: In terms of ingredients, it seemed that you had to go a lot further than just the DC area.

JL: It was something that I had to do, and perhaps at that time it was a new approach to running a restaurant. In terms of finding what I wanted, I saw my market as the world as opposed to just the local area. I got on the phone and products were flown in from everywhere. It was very time consuming, and of course, very expensive, but that thinking helped us build a truly great restaurant.

BB: Many years have past since your arrival in America. How do you see the state of food in this country today?

JL: Oh my God, there is no comparison. Everything is so much better, and that's the way it is supposed to be. We have been educated, and our chefs are so much better, and certainly our restaurants are better. Our customers know so much more, and they expect so much more. 1979 seems like so many years ago, but when you look at the picture of food in America, we're really talking about a short period of time. The progress has been amazing, and I feel lucky to have been a part of this.

BB: You were so instrumental in altering the perception of food in America, and in so doing, contributing so much to our food culture. With all our progress, we have become a nation literally addicted to fast foods. What does this say about us?

JL: In my hometown of Condom in southwest France, people didn't have refrigerators, so everything we ate was fresh, and of course, this had a tremendous influence in how I approach the subject of food. I wish everyone would learn to appreciate the value of eating freshly prepared foods with quality ingredients. This is never going to happen, because people have to eat, and in many cases, it's an economic consideration. It is a shame that people are so busy that the convenience of fast foods is so appealing. I believe that every responsible chef is concerned with this, and I will tell you that it is a major concern of mine. I'm not sure what any of us can do about it.

The great chef died of cancer in November of 2001. One of the most interesting statements from Jean-Louis is frightening, but certainly understandable ... "You need to say to your wife (if you have a wife) 'I'm sorry, but you will need to be second in my life. Being in the restaurant 10, 12, 14 hours a day, that's your family." The man was interesting.